Cypripediums are the orchids that nature improved and then forgot: They did not share in evolutionary developments of other orchids. However, many of them did become hardy and easily amenable to culture. They have been used for house plants in Europe and America for more than eighty years. Their small, flaplike leaves and short-stemmed, bizarre flowers do not take up much room. A hundred cypripediums can be grown in the space occupied by twenty large cymbidiums. In the Mediterranean region and southern United States from the Carolinas to California many kinds have been grown outdoors as welcome additions to rockeries. Like the cattleyas, to which they are rated second in importance and beauty, they offer a nearly unparalleled season of bloom. Flowers appear in September-each one lasting for months—and continue through the following June.

Charles Darwin considered cypripediums to be the grandfathers, in a sense, of the present-day exotics. Later botanists have inclined to this view. Certainly cypripediums have all the structural features of other orchids except one: they have no lip. Instead, two petals are combined to form a slipper-like pouch, hence the name, which means "Venus' slipper," although the flower is more frequently called "lady's-slipper" or "moccasin flower." The pouch is considered to be a lower evolutionary device than the modern lip of other orchids.

Few other genera of plants have the wide global distribution of cypripediums. They are found from Archangel and the icy forests of northern Canada to the warm valleys of Mexico, from South America to Nepal and the Philippines. With the exception of Africa and the temperate zone of Australia, cypripediums are found where other plants thrive; and where other orchids are found in quantity, a few cypripediums often will be found too. Although they are slowly becoming extinct, it almost seems as if they haven't given up the idea that they are earlier in the evolutionary scale and must hang around to watch the progress of their more highly prized brethren.

Cypripediums are at home at nearly any elevation. They thrive at 7,000 feet in the Andes, or even higher in the Himalayas—yet they grow at six feet above sea level along the coast of Mindanao. They have been found growing in the forks of tall trees where considerable debris has collected and in the forest floor where there is abundant rich, decomposing humus. They have been observed on the roots of ferns, and on the roots of other orchids as well, although the relationship is purely accidental. They can use moss as a growing medium and get along well on small rocks, bogs, or open meadows. In fact, they have been able to adjust themselves to all kinds of environmental conditions that support a modicum of plant life.

However, there is considerable confusion in horticultural nomenclature as to exactly what constitutes a cypripedium. Any orchid with a pouch, and several intermediate forms, are inclusively and variously called cypripediums or lady's-slippers. Botanically, this is highly inaccurate. The true cypripedium was so named early in the eighteenth century by Linné after examining a plant now known as Cypripedium calceolus, which is a deciduous native of the temperate zones only. So, also, are Cypripedium acaule, Cypripedium candidum, and the twenty or thirty more known to science. These are the lady's-slippers of northern Europe and America. While sometimes pretty, these cypripediums have nothing for which they can be seriously recommended. Some people like them, most don't. Some people can grow them, most can't. For some obscure reason they respond poorly when transplanted from the wilds to well-kept gardens. They are hard to grow indoors and seldom succeed in greenhouses. Very particular about their choice of location in nature, they can't change their habits in cultivation. Apparently some chemical change, necessary to their continued existence, occurs in the root stocks and tubers during the cold winters after they lose their foliage. Under the ideal conditions of artificial culture, continued warmth disagrees with them. Individuals who have had reasonable success with them often remark that they do best when left alone outdoors under conditions that closely approximate their natural habitat.

The so-called cypripediums described in the rest of this chapter aren't cypripediums at all, but we continue to call them by that name in testimony to the complete confusion in which earlier botanists were immersed by the bewildering multitude of plants they were beginning to classify. To be technically correct, the balance of the family should be called phragmipediums, possibly selenipediums, and paphiopedi-lums. The first two names are now generally considered to be synonymous, but since the point is still debated, they are separated here. All three genera are related to the cypripediums, and they all have pouches, but they differ in small technical respects and are therefore given the status of separate identities. If you want to be accurate in your terminology, ask for them by their names. But if you want to be understood, just call them cypripediums.

The phragmipediums and their subgenus the selenipe-diums may be second to cypripediums in the evolutionary scale. They are found in the New World only, extending from lower Mexico to South America. There are only eleven members in this section, and they aren't commonly grown. One or two of them make interesting additions to orchid collections because of their weird habit of elongating their sepals after flowering. Culturally, they are grown with paphiopedilums.

The most important of all these genera is paphiopedilum, meaning "sandal" or "shoe." Paphiopedilums are what you probably mean when you refer to the misnamed lady's-slippers that are sold in florists' shops for corsage flowers. By far the largest genus, with about fifty species and some 6,000 hybrids, they are found only in tropical Asia, Malaya, the Philippines, and the Dutch East Indies. All the colors of the spectrum are found in the flowers, although they are hard colors and run to green, yellow, purple, and brown. They lack the soft, luminescent qualities of cattleyas, but in their way they are unsurpassed for their breathtaking color combinations.

Culturally, paphiopedilums fall into two distinct classes: the cool section and the warm section. The difference between warm and cool paphiopedilums is easy to determine in the species but sometimes impossible to detect in the hybrids. The cool paphiopedilums, those suitable for outdoor gardens and indoor windows, have clear green leaves. The warm types have mottled foliage. However, some hybrids tend to keep the spotted foliage, and you'll have to take the word of expert growers or study your orchid stud-books in order to determine their degree of hardiness. In general, most hybrids having one or more of the cool types as parents can be considered as hardy.

Warm paphiopedilums are not often found in orchid collections, lovely as they are, because the cool section offers as much beauty for considerably less effort. Warm paphiopedilums require, essentially, the same treatment as cattleyas (except for more moisture at their roots), and are often grown with them in small greenhouses where variety is desired. Otherwise, they are placed in closed windows, Wardian cases, and similar structures where a minimum temperature of 50° can be maintained. They can be grown in open windows, but not always with the degree of success that is desired. Trays of water or moist gravel don't fill their humidity requirements to the necessary degree. You'll have to syringe them also on every legitimate occasion you can. Nonetheless, they can be placed in open windows when they are in bloom. The lower temperatures and drier air help the blooms last longer. Afterward they may be replaced in closed cases.

The cool paphiopedilums and their hybrids are the orchids that you should grow, no matter how little you know about orchids or how limited your equipment. The four best known species,Paphiopedilum insigne, Paphiopedilum villosum and its variety, boxallii, and Paphiopedilum spicerianum, come from the higher elevations of the Himalayas in the provinces of Sikkim and Assam. The winter temperature is around 32° or less. There is plenty of frost and occasional snow. The summer heat averages 90°, but 110° is not infrequent. This means that you can take your ordinary garden variety window plants, no matter where you live, throw them away, and replace them with cool paphiopedilums.

Historically, Paphiopedilum insigne and its numerous varieties and hybrids are the pick of the lot. It would be difficult to find hardier orchids and impossible to pick out handsomer ones. Paphiopedilum insigne, var. sanderae, with its primrose yellow flowers, is not surpassed by any orchid. The merit of this plant has been recognized since the discovery of the insigne types in 1819, and not until 1869 did propagations and imports begin to satisfy the requests of people who wanted the plants for window decoration. From that time on they have been a "must" in European indoor gardening, even as far north as Petsamo in Finland and Wick in Scotland where snows and raging winds are nearly year-around visitors.

The fact that Paphiopedilum insigne was long ago recognized as a house plant is evidenced by an article which appeared in the London Garden Magazine as early as 1882. It has this to say about the species: "In a window, or in a well-lighted sitting-room it is perfectly at home, and with proper attention as to watering and sprinkling occasionally to rid the leaves of dust, increases in size, and flowers regularly every winter. A light and airy greenhouse from which frost is excluded, suits it admirably; it may be kept even in a cold frame during the summer months. It is not particular as to compost; it will grow in loam, peat, common garden soil, peat-fibre and bone dust, peat-loam and sand, loam and dried cow-manure, peat-fibre and horse-droppings, sphagnum moss and charcoal, and finally cocoa-nut fibre, surfaced with growing Selaginella krausiana. It is most vigorous in constitution, and so defies all bad and indifferent culture, growing even under no special culture of any kind."

It seems that our forebears knew more about some orchids than we know today in spite of our advanced horticultural sciences. Of course, their houses were cooler and not as arid as ours today, the former factor helping rather than hindering plant growth. Most American homes are consistently too warm. Europeans are always flabbergasted to learn that many American homes are kept at 70°. However, with such a long history of successful indoor gardening, Paphiopedilum insigne and other cool members of the family are excellent choices for plant house guests.

Although the culture of paphiopedilums has been reduced to simple and exact rules, a debate still persists as to the correct growing medium in which to plant them. Primarily terrestrials, they have adapted themselves to many kinds of soil composts, but their growth in composts with loam as the primary ingredient has not always been successfill. In osmunda, however, they seem to find more suitable conditions. The two essential conditions to keep in mind are continuous moisture about their roots, yet complete and rapid drainage.

A survey of many growers made some years ago brought out the following facts regarding the response of paphio-pedilums to their growing media: All paphiopedilums could be grown well in leafmold and decomposed granite. Loam in small quantities didn't seem to impede growth; in large quantities it was injurious because drainage became increasingly more uncertain. The cool types of paphiopedilums, however, were consistently tolerant to composts which included some loams, the warm types nearly always intolerant. The latter were best grown in osmunda only.

Thus you have some choice as to the compost you can use. The simplest would be leafmold and decomposed granite—if you plan to grow only the cool types. The best all-around compost probably would be osmunda if you expect to have a variety of plants. One eastern grower successfully uses a mixture of peat dust, fibrous loam, and sand for both warm and cool paphiopedilums. The compost is light, doesn't pack, drains well, and as a result doesn't get saturated with water.

Being sympodials, the paphiopedilums are propagated by division. But since they are without pseudobulbs and have very short connective rhizomes, a great deal of care is necessary in separating old plants. The dormant eyes are small and close together; it is easy to injure them and reduce your chances of securing extra plants. Since they have no storage organs, they must be left in clumps of three or more. Some people do grow them from single divisions, but only when the vegetative part is amply supplied with roots. Even then, it is a tricky procedure requiring very high humidities and close attention to watering. Make it a habit to leave your propagations as large as conveniently possible. They will establish themselves more quickly and will not suffer from shock. Your natural increases will be nearly as rapid and a good deal stronger and safer. Incidentally, paphiopedilums must be knocked out of their pots and the roots well cleaned before divisions are made. Unlike the orchids with pseudo-bulbs, you can't tell easily where to make a cut through the rhizomes.

In potting, only two things need to be considered. The compost, if leaf mold, must be well firmed around the roots; leave no air pockets. The base of the plants must be no lower than the rim level of the pots. The compost will thus slope outward and downward to provide a water receptacle. Both the rhizomes and the foliage of paphiopedilums are susceptible to bacterial rots.

Watering is not a problem if the compost is kept continuously moist, yet not saturated at any time. As William Watson said when he was the curator at Kew Gardens, "The key to successful management [of paphiopedilums] is the watering pot. All species like plenty of water at the roots all the year round." But just how moist is moist; or how wet is wet? That is the problem. And it has never been solved. Common sense, practice, and careful attention will indicate to you how much or how little water to give paphiopedilums, or any orchid for that matter. Just remember: too much water is dangerous; lack of water has never killed a plant if the minimum water need is satisfied. Watch the reaction of your plants. They alone can tell you what they need and whether their requirements are being met by your cultural conditions.

Most growers and amateurs fertilize paphiopedilums with weak manure solutions about once each month. Paphiopedilums, either in leafmold or osmunda, appear to utilize and benefit from the organic nitrogen contained in the liquid manure and also from the hormone type of stimulants the fertilizer contains. This is understandable because paphiopedilums are foliage plants, their nitrogen metabolism being higher than that of their cousins with pseudobulbs. Commercial liquid concentrates, however, have worked equally well.

Oddly enough, in spite of being inhabitants of jungle floors, the light requirement of paphiopedilums is rather high. They need a soft, luminous quality of light rather than a hard, brilliant one. Given the former, they can stand as much as 50 per cent of the summer light, and full winter light. A hard, intense light quickly burns their foliage. The cool types are somewhat less temperamental about their light requirement. They can be grown under lath in the southern states. Elsewhere, and including the warm paphiopedilums, a muslin shade is superior to lath and better than paint. It can be stated as almost a rule (though local conditions will vary) that above the 35th parallel of latitude they will require shade in summer, none in winter. Below this parallel, shade is given continuously throughout the year, although in winter it can be decreased beneficially.

Few orchids will adapt themselves to the wide variety of conditions found in homes or outdoors as well as cool paphiopedilums. A few of them placed in a south window will keep well. An east or west window is nearly as good. On hot days always syringe the plants once or twice lightly. In home culture it is hard to overemphasize the importance of syringing to counteract dry air.

Outdoors the culture of cool paphiopedilums is the same as that of cymbidiums. In fact, orchid plantings in the Pacific Southwest often combine the two, thereby insuring more continuous bloom. However, the cool types respond better when grown in pots and then plunged into the ground. Be sure to have several inches of gravel between the pot and the ground. That small amount of extra drainage is vital in getting water out of the pots quickly.

When you are ready to take up orchid culture, try starting with the cool paphiopedilums. A half-dozen or so about the house will give you a definite lift. Besides, they will teach you more about orchid culture than most orchids.

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